The Train to Cordoba

March 13, 2022

“The impulse to travel is one of the hopeful symptoms of life.”

- Agnes Repplier

Trains really are wonderful things. Europe has figured this out. It is a much more pleasant way of traveling than by car. You arrive at a big airy often historic station in the town center. Tickets are not that expensive. Platforms are easy to reach and your ride, like some enormous silver dragon comes right up to your feet, the door opens with a hiss, and invites you in. There is plenty of room for your luggage. The seats are comfortable and big windows offer the entertainment as you watch the countryside go by. One cannot help but feel like you are off to the mythical Hogwarts.

At the station

A random castle out of the window of the train on the way

We left Sevilla for the 2 hour train to Cordoba, Spain. It is a smaller town that sits on a bend of the Guadalquivir River and is steeped in Roman and Moorish history. Cordoba once served as the regional capital for both empires. The town has been here since the first century AD.

When Rome fell and Europe was in the Dark Ages, it was an illiterate and barbaric time. Not so here in Cordoba. Here was an oasis of enlightened thought, religious tolerance, and artistic expression. Cordoba had a dedication to philosophy and science and Muslims still worship here answering the call to prayer.

The Mezquita

We arrived in the afternoon. Our hotel is directly across a narrow street from the above monstrosity - the magnificent Mezquita. This huge, ancient building is the home of a Mosque and a Cathedral! It is the star attraction of the city and the main reason to come to Cordoba to visit.

But it will have to wait until tomorrow.

The sun was out and we knew rain was again coming so we decided to spend the afternoon on a walk around the area before the rain would obscure the view.

An old Roman mill on the river

The marshy river was nearby so we went to have look. The Guadalquivir used to be navigable all the way to the ocean. As the centuries have gone by it has silted in. It is now filled with birds. Herons and cranes were abundant as the stood in the running water and opened their wings to get the warmth of the sun.

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This ancient bridge was the first one built by the Romans over the river. It helped established Cordoba as an important fort. It still retains its Roman foundations - the stone house like edifices that support the structure. It has been modified several times over the years but those Roman foundations remain.

It offered a good look back on the city. You will notice the triumphal arch. it was to be built to honor the King Phillip II when he came to visit the city. Phillip ruled during Spain’s golden age and was a suitor to Elizabeth I in England. He was arguably the most powerful man in the world.

However, the King arrived early before they could finish work on the Arch. So the local Andalusians said , “Meh” and never finished it after the great king left.

Adjacent to the Arch is this enormous column. It was an 18th century monument dedicated to St Rapheal - who was in charge of protecting the city at that time from its three main scourges: Plague, hunger, and floods.

At the far end of the bridge lies a fortified gate. This was one of the original gates to the city. Today it houses a museum.

By now it was getting towards 6-7pm locally. We wanted to eat. The trouble with Spain is despite the large amount of very good food available, Spaniards do not eat dinner until 8:30pm. So all the restaurants were still closed! We came dangerously close to going to the Burger king, which of course never closes, but fortunately we were rescued by a local food bar that agreed to serve us dinner.

Dear God No!

Tomorrow, we will go to the main even here.